
So this is a review with a simple message: go and support your local Chinese restaurant.
#Chinatown restaurant rush hour skin
‘The skin is dark lacquered, the meat soft and sensuous’: roast duck. It doesn’t matter what excuse you choose for your racism. The mother of one Anglo-Chinese friend calls it “health-linked racial discrimination”. Across the Chinese restaurant sector, business is down. There are reports of abuse on the streets, of Asians being shunned on public transport. “People are scared.” Because a nasty virus has broken out in a city 5,500 miles away from London, Britain’s Chinese community is suffering. “We want the business back but we can’t do anything about it,” she says, with a sad shrug. I’ve never seen it like this before.Īfter the Chinese New Year at the end of January, as news of the emerging coronavirus spread, “business just went down,” says Jackie, duty manager of the Four Seasons at No 12, her hand making a swooping gesture like a plane crashing to ground. The pedestrianised street is sparsely populated and through the picture windows, chairs and tables sit forlorn and empty. Tonight, there was a pre-cinema rush, which we got caught up in. London’s Gerrard Street on a Saturday night is usually the restaurant equivalent of a mosh pit: a heaving crowd of hungry people, the scent of scorched wok in their nostrils, and the reflection of the bronzed and shiny roast ducks that crowd the windows of Chinatown’s main drag in their eyeballs.

It’s after dinner that we really notice it.

Four Seasons, 12 Gerrard Street, London W1D 5PR (020 7494 0870).
